August start mileage: 67,243
Gas @ 67,416 – 3.29 gal E0 90 @ $3.389/gal = $12.75. 119/3.29 = 36.2 mpg
End @ 67,471 (109 miles)
(I went somewhere on 2 August … didn’t write about it, but it was about a 120-mile ride.)
Didn’t really have anywhere I needed to go or anything to do, but the weather was too nice to stay in all weekend. High 70s to low 80s for five days in a row. Wanted to get closer to 67,500 miles for the next (minor) maintenance cycle.
Took back roads to US 301, then VA 2 into Fredericksburg. Stopped at Motowerks to chat with Brook & Jinks. They’re on board for the pushrod tubes & seals videos, I suggested January or February when maintenance customers are at their lowest. They’re also interested in helping with videos for the R 60/2. They did a few videos for “Motowerks TV” on YouTube, but didn’t have time to commit to more since the shop stays so busy.
Stopped at Morton’s BMW to let James know I’m coming on Tuesday, as early as possible. Aiming for an 8 AM arrival. Things I need to do:
• Re-torque cylinder head nuts (6 of them on each side)
• Adjust valve clearances
• Replace valve cover gaskets
• Change all the oils and oil filter
• Replace the air filter
I should have gone out to the shed to gather my supplies today, but here it is 530 PM and it’s not getting done. Will do it tomorrow. I have Jim’s truck, so I’ll go get the trailer Monday night. I need to find my tie-downs, too – they’re not in the car, I looked.
I have a list of all the parts & supplies I’ll need, plus a few new tools. Need 3 quarts of engine oil and 2 quarts of gear oil – that shit is expensive! The transmission takes 800 to 850 ccs, final drive takes 250, swingarm takes 150, so I need about 1.25 liters, which is a bit more than a quart – which means I need to have 2 quarts of gear oil for every full service.
Even though I’m unlikely to get to the oil pan/oil uptake rehab I’ve got planned, I went ahead and made a list of all the torque values I need. George recommended I test the oil pan bolts at about 90% of their torque value (which is 10 Nm) to see if any are obviously stripped BEFORE removing them. Smart! I’ll try to remember to do the same with the R 60/2 when the time comes. I have to remember to tighten them from the center out, too, kind of like this:
9 5 1 3 7
11 14
13 12
8 4 2 6 10George suggested using Yamabond 4 on both sides of the gasket – mustn’t have any leaks! Tightening like that will put pressure out from the middle, preventing the gasket from bunching up and squeeze it to the corners and ends as well.
Even if I can’t pull the oil pan, I can do the rest. It’s been a while since I adjusted the valves … actually, I don’t remember ever adjusting the valves … but I remember adjusting valves on my Oilheads. The process is basically the same, just fewer valves. The hardest part is getting the correct cylinder to TDC to close both valves at the same time. I can do the cylinder head nuts at any point in the cycle, so no worries there, just have to do those BEFORE setting the valve clearances. That’s easy though – slacken each one 1/4 turn in a specific order, then tighten in the same order to 35 Nm.