By Ben Chamberlain.
Denim jackets, there’s a lot of them – which in terms of choice is a good thing, but it can make it hard to tell them apart.
From high-end repro to high-street fashun-fodder, most brands from Levi’s to Louis Vuitton have produced them at one time or another – with varying approaches, price points and success. So what are the different types, and what offers the combination of quality and style that the Permanent Style reader is after?
Since Levi’s introduced their various iterations of the denim jacket (beginning in 1880) not a huge amount has changed in terms of style, so choosing the best type is a good place to start, and as Levi’s are the originating source of inspiration, we’ll use their monikers to keep it simple: Type I, Type II and Type III.
The images below show the Types in order. The first two are Full Count, the third vintage Levi’s.
Type I: The oldest and most sought-after model. Though it was introduced in 1905, it’s the 1936 version we’re most familiar with. This early design derives most of its charm from utility: pleated front, single flapped chest pocket and a cinch back. The asymmetrical design and antiquated cinch detailing make it kind of distinguished, but not as recognisable as its younger brother…
Type II: One of the most iconic designs ever produced. The Type II was introduced in 1952 at a time of post-war American dominance, the birth of the teenager, rock ‘n’ roll and rebellion. Its kinship to the Type I is obvious, with the same overall shape and pleated front, but it replaced the fussy cinch with waist side-tab adjusters and added that symmetry of a second pocket.
Type III: The furthest change in design, the Type III was sharper, more angular and fitted. Produced in 1962 with a different audience in mind, the western-over-workwear influence is clear. Gone is the pleated front, with two V-shaped panels running down either side of the chest instead, and two now angular ‘western’ pocket-flaps sit at the top, set higher on the chest against the shoulder yoke.
Each of those designs has its own appeal, and I think you are often drawn automatically to one or the other. My advice would be to go with that instinct, and if in doubt go for the safest option.
Although the denim jacket has been constantly reworked over the years, there’s much to be said for ‘if it ain’t broke don’t fix it’: the urge to reinterpret and add a ‘uniqueness’ rarely works, in fact usually over-complicating the design and sacrificing its original character. For denim I’d say focus on quality, fit and fade – the design work has already been done.
For this kind of jacket, I think Japanese reproductions should be at the forefront of any search. Multi-brand heritage stores such as Clutch Cafe, Burg & Shild and Standard & Strange have great collections and if you can visit one, I would highly recommend taking advantage of that in-person experience.
This is because I find that with so many similar offerings, the choice can come down to things like the texture of the denim or slightly different fits. So having the chance to try everything and compare sizing, as well as leaning on the expertise of the shop staff, can really help.
A few Japanese brands I would advise focusing on are Full Count, Warehouse and Freewheelers. Each of these produce their own version of the three Types discussed, and all are produced in excellent and characterful denim. The only issue is that most are very dark-blue, and if you want something a little more lived in it can be a lot of work.
Unlike jeans, jackets take quite a while to wear in – they have to be worn like a second skin, or at least like a shirt rather than outerwear. Wear them all day, even inside. If you’re happy for this to be a process of months and years, then go with the dark colours and trust the process; the result will be truly gratifying. Otherwise, look for a good wash.
And even for dark colours, I’d recommend buying the pre-washed rather than raw. Shrinkage on raw denim jackets can be unpredictable, so if you’re not sure, don’t risk it. The results won’t be much affected in the long run.
Warehouse & Co’s denim (first image above) has a coarse, rough feel and ‘hairy’ long-staple surface. The denim has a high shrink rate, but a natural elasticity which I’ve found becomes very comfortable and soft over time. The deep indigo denim takes quite a long time to start fading, but when it does ,it creates a great contrast with the high points of wear.
Freewheelers’ ‘Vanishing West’ (second image above) is similar to Warehouse denim, but without such a coarse feel. It’s very closely modelled after Levi’s Cone Mills. Sadly, I don’t have first-hand experience with this denim, but as a maker, they are highly regarded, and all worn examples I have seen are excellent, fading faithfully as vintage pieces.
Full Count denim is quite unusual. Made from long-staple Zimbabwean cotton, the material has a much faster fade by design, with a very soft handfeel and natural elasticity that comes from that cotton.
Full Count are also currently one of the only options for pre-worn and distressed washes at this quality level. They do an excellent job of faking those fades, and the Dartford wash (shown in the breakdown of the Types above) is my personal favourite (as seen on Permanent Style in jeans here) but they offer a few variations.
Orslow is also worth mentioning here for a secondary washed option, and they do a good job. The denim is slubby and irregular, mimicking how the uneven weave shines through on early examples of worn-in denim. Their washed jackets are a very reasonable at the price, and they know their international market well, with a good understanding of sizing and proportions for a western market.
The options above range in price from £300 to 500. This is not cheap, but it is usually good value for the quality and by no means as expensive as offerings from brands the likes of Visvim. However, in the interest of egalitarianism I wanted to mention a few options that come in under £300.
This desire sent me on a little bit of a quest, passing through the standard options of Lee, Wrangler and Levi’s, plus many other mainstream options. But a new brand ended up standing out, one from Couverture & Garbstore called TDR. Though new, their collection is disarmingly familiar, with a blend of heritage, technical and classic staples, and their latest, second collection has some interesting and well-priced denim jackets.
Using Japanese denim, they produce a Type I in a dark-rinse wash for £205, and a fair example of a stone-washed, hand-faded version for £235 (both beow). Both jackets are made in an 11oz nep denim woven in Okayama, with all the usual styling of early Type I – pleated front, boxy fit and nice details like laurel-wreath buttons.
The fit on the TDR jackets is a little more generous than some of the Japanese reproductions, with a larger neck opening, wider fit through the body and a longer length. It leans more towards a streetwear shape in this regard, and lends itself to being worn oversized.
A mention should also go to Pherrow’s. This stalwart of the Japanese scene always delivers easy Japanese-made Americana at a fair price (denim jacket, £259). Although their sizing can be an issue, if the measurements work for you I’d say they’re worth throwing into the mix.
Their ‘stormy blue’ denim can start little flat and a very deep indigo, but once worn in it can hold its own, if not having the same individualism as some of the other brands mentioned.
At a later date I might cover vintage denim jackets – how to source and find a good-value one – plus second-hand. It’s also a good way to explore how much the reputation of Levi’s has changed over the years.
Pictures of Ben: Giorgio Lattanzi
