By Erik Östling. Erik is a stylist and merchandising consultant based in Stockholm. He is 43 years old.
Last year, a few publications like WSJ, GQ and Highsnobiety picked up on a microtrend inspired by older men’s style, which they called “Grandpa Core” or “Eclectic Grandpa”, with Tyler the Creator being the person referenced.
American Vogue, however, ended the conversation on a sharp note, pointing out the irony of following a trend where the whole point is to look like “someone who’s spent a lifetime curating a collection of clothing and accessories” yet as with all microtrends, it was supposed to happen overnight.
I read those articles and the accompanying discussions with a smile because, for the past 10 years or so, I’ve been observing and documenting well-dressed old men in the streets and had come to exactly the same conclusion: I can’t get away with dressing like an old man because I don’t have the experience. It takes a lifetime.
I’m very aware that I know more about style and clothing now than I did 10 years ago (for example, not buying an extra pair of trousers with a suit but rather buying fabric for a second pair).
Given that, it’s impossible to ignore the sartorial authority of someone who’s both well-dressed and significantly older. For that reason, I believe older men are who we should turn to for wisdom and experience when it comes to how to dress.
…the only problem is we don’t have much time left to do it. The well-dressed older men we see now are the result of the early baby-boomer generation (born between 1946 and 1955), whose fathers most likely wore a suit every day.
These men had that context, but then also during their most formative years witnessed the explosion of colour that was America’s Flower Power era and Britain’s Peacock Revolution. They witnessed (or embraced themselves) the 80s yuppie era and the designer suit boom with brands like Armani, Boss and Polo.
That’s a heady combination that seems unlikely to happen again, and these people are getting older. In about 10 years there probably won’t be many of them left. That’s why I’m desperate to grab as much of their wisdom as I can.
Some of the things I think we can learn from older men are their relation to size and fit; how they choose colours; their use of playful elements; what real effortlessness looks like; and finally how to get away with eye-catching eccentricity.
Size and fit
The older men I’ve spoken to about clothing all say one thing, which is that the most important thing is their clothes must be comfortable.
What I’ve come to realise, however, is that when they talk about comfort they’re not just referring to a physical feeling. They’re also talking about the mental ease that comes from being dressed respectfully to those around them.
The result, in many cases, is a more generous fit that creates a broader silhouette. It’s almost a rule that jackets and blazers are slightly oversized, and it’s not uncommon to see sleeves so long that they almost hide the hands.
Colour
Whether it’s the liberation from corporate conventions or a general understanding of colour theory, older men tend to avoid dark colours more than their younger counterparts.
It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to understand that men’s hair tends to grey (or disappear) in their later years. However, it took a colour scientist to help me understand that this reduced contrast between hair and skin tone is best complemented by softening the contrasts in nearby garments.
Most of the men seem to be doing this instinctively. They generally dress in gentle tones that highlight their natural complexion, rather than opting for white, navy or dark grey.
Playfulness
My observation is that many people with a great interest in clothing in general, and sartorial menswear in particular, take it a bit too seriously. I really appreciate how designer Frederick Castelberry or photographer Jamie Ferguson inject a bit of playfulness into their work.
Older men are great at this. Often it’s adding a bit of pattern or colour (or both combined) to the outfit, but other times it’s much more creative (see examples below).
Effortlessness
I think one of the most overused words in menswear is ‘effortless’, because if there’s one thing we can all agree on, it’s that the menswear that ends up in our social feeds has very little to do with not making an effort.
The older men I observe really look like they haven’t stressed over what they’re wearing. I’m pretty sure they don’t have a sofa at home covered with four jackets, three trousers, and 10 neckties, all from running through outfits the night before.
Yet they end up looking far more effortless than most younger men I see, in real life or on Instagram.
Eccentricity
There’s a clear, perhaps even linear correlation between growing older and the ability to get away with eccentric outfits.
It’s very rare that I see an older man go ‘too far’ when it comes to unusual clothing. The only explanation I have is that aesthetic wisdom justifies wearing more spectacular garments or accessories. These pictures say it all.
I think personal style is a product of life’s experiences and lessons – that’s what makes it more intriguing with age. An older man’s wardrobe is a distillation of the pieces he’s adored most, those that have withstood the test of time and in the process become an extension of his individuality.
I’ll keep running across the street to photograph older men before they are all gone, letting them guide me in creating the perfect wardrobe.
And hopefully, in 30 years, I’ll stand by the sea in my favourite Speedos smoking a cigar, blissfully unaware that (besides being photographed), I’m the greatest style inspiration for another anxious forty-something.
The photos are not candid, but they are taken without prior permission. They are intended for purposes of inspiration, documentation, and artistic expression.
Top photo by Giuseppe Maitino of Peplord. Erik is @gubbstil on Instagram
