Bespoke mohair suit from J Mueser: Review

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I commissioned this suit from J Mueser in New York last year – in black mohair, using the bespoke service they offer alongside the normal (and more commonly used) made-to-measure.

The idea was to explore different ways of using mohair, given all its performance virtues (sharp, strong, breathable) discussed in the recent mohair article. In particular, I was interested in its potential for evening wear – not black tie, but something with a similar touch of glamour.

In many ways a black suit should be able to do this on its own of course, given its clearly not the navy or grey of business attire. But black suits have been a little tarnished by cheap versions worn by bouncers and the like. The sharpness and sheen of mohair elevates it above that I think.

Still, when I wore the suit to host our pop-up party in New York last year (the images show us wandering the West Village a couple of hours before) I deliberately dressed it down, using accessories like a sliver buckle, sunglasses, and an old work shirt to give it a more relaxed feel. A slightly Western feel too.

This type of combination was something Jake and I had talked about when we initially discussed the suit.

We wanted to make it clear that this wasn’t a dinner suit – not a poor version of one, not an attempt to pretend a black suit was a tux – and an easy way to do that was to make things like the belt prominent, given how much a belt is anathema to the silky style of black tie.

I think that works here. This look feels more rock ‘n’ roll, a little sexy even. (Uncomfortable though it always makes me saying that, given the straight-laced middle-aged father-of-three Englishman that I am).

A more conservative combination would be something like a charcoal roll neck and sharp oxfords – though I’d personally prefer a collared knit like our Dartmoor instead of the roll neck, perhaps buttoned to the throat. In that case the belt would be more discreet and partially hidden by the knit; a pocket square or lapel pin could add interest.

The mohair is from Standeven, a 55/45 split wool/mohair and so firmly in the traditional English category from our mohair guide. The mohair here is not just for a little performance boost – it’s there to get the look.

As I said in the guide, that’s what I prefer if I am going to have mohair, as it’s a deliberate aesthetic choice. In this suit I do like the effect – a definite sharpness and crispness to the cloth and that slightly evening feel.

I haven’t had the suit long enough to know how many outfits I’ll like it with, or how often I’ll wear it. So it’s hard to say how much I’d recommend it to readers. I have tried it with smart knits and denim shirts, as well as some silk shirts, but not multiple times and not always out in the wild.

In fact this is something we should do more – writing about tailoring commissions a year or two later, rather than a week. I did do this a few years ago and there are some earlier ones called ‘Reflections on bespoke’ but this should be a regular thing, not an occasional one.

As to Jake’s bespoke service, and style, I found it interesting. J Mueser use the service to offer existing customers something more traditional – more structured, more fine handwork – and you definitely notice that.

The jacket has a 3D shape, something you feel as soon as you put it on. It’s not heavy or stiff, but there is a sense of a sculpted shell, very different to most modern (usually Italian) tailoring. I can see how an existing Mueser client would feel they were getting something different.

The fit was good, though there are a couple of minor things I might still tweak after two fittings. The handwork is really nice – again it has that bespoke fineness and handmade feel, which is a rarity among brands in New York.

I was a little unsure during the fittings about the shape of the notch in the lapel, which slopes slightly downward. But having worn it a few times, I actually really like it. Again, Jake said he wanted something that felt different to his made to measure, and it certainly does this. The notch is lower, the lapels a little wider and they have more belly.

One thing I think really made a difference was making the suit with Jake in attendance, giving his advice. It’s so rare, as we always say, to have a bespoke tailor with strong style, and several times Jake’s taste made a difference. The belt loops was one, but there were a few others, such as having very dark brown horn buttons rather than black. It’s one more thing that makes it clear this isn’t a dinner suit.

Like many in New York, Jake uses a freelance tailor to do the cutting and making – there are several of these in the city, leftovers from the days when bespoke was a proper domestic business. (Manish did a great series of articles on that, beginning here.)

I don’t think the fact he’s not an in-house tailor matters, particularly with a brand that uses separate factories for its other tailoring anyway. And as I said, it was clear what extra Jake was adding to the process.

A bespoke two-piece suit starts at $4950, which my suit fell within. The bespoke service normally takes 8-10 weeks and involves two or three fittings. It is usually only available in New York.

The cloth is a three-ply plain-weave wool/mohair mix from Standeven. Code 6029, 55/45 split, in the Cape Town bunch.

The other clothes shown are: